July 31, 2005 - Massive Waves At Balangan, Bali
The swell that everyone was talking about finally hit today. It was just a massive day at Balangan. The pictures really don't do it justice to how big it really was. You just can't even imagine what it was like when you're laying on your board and these MASSIVE mountains of water are coming at you! I was really trying to avoid taking another beating like I took last week here when it was huge. My back is still in bad shape from last week's pounding. I managed to pick off about 6 waves today and only took a few beatings. It was definitely very tense out in the water today! There were times when just out of nowhere a Massive sweeper set would roll through and everyone was pretty much paddling for their lives! On one set, I was the only fortunate one to barely make it over. And let me just say that I was stressing! I pretty much had the shakes after that episode. Three other guys behind me had to bail their boards. All three of them broke their leashes and were pretty much stranded shitting their pants. One guy looked at me with a fear in his eyes and said “How am I going to get in?". I offered to let him grab on to my feet so I could tow him to safety. As I type this, I still think back on the intensity of today's surf. Naomi from California also stepped up to the plate and paddled out! I was very surprised that she did and I think she didn’t realize what she was getting herself into. It took her about two hours to catch one wave that she rode all the way in. I will say that she did dropped in on a bomb which was very impressive!
On another note, I have found myself a new office. There is a killer little hotel on the cliff at Balangan called La Joya. It has insane bungalows and a pool area that is just incredible. I met a guy out in the water that dates the manager who filled me in on the place. They are super cool here and have been letting me hang out and use the pool, connect to their wireless internet for free, etc. I just buy a beer or two so that I don't feel so guilty using their facility. Make sure that you check out the pics of the view from my new office! Well, it’s time to end this posting and upload it! Not to mention that I have a nice glass of wine waiting for me. The journey continues....
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