Today was just an all around heavy day of surf. The waves were definitely big and seriously pounding. My morning surf started off at a place called Telescopes which is a long, fast, peeling left hander. From the boat it didn’t look that serious, but once I paddled out it was throwing from top to bottom and pounding. I took two pretty heavy beatings on the head this am that definitely gave me my wake up call! There were also two broken boards today as well!

After our first session, we packed it up and headed back to Playgrounds. As it turned out, the waves weren’t that clean. We did check out a spot called Hideaways which was just throwing some serious barrels. The only problem was that it was just to shallow to surf on the low tide. So I shot a few photos and we moved on to the next spot!

Our next spot was a place called Ebay and it was definitely one of the heaviest waves of the trip. It was just super fast, steep, and throwing these big barrels from top to bottom. I saw so many people just getting worked. On top of that, if you didn’t make the wave you’d get pushed into the reef and then there were these two boulders sticking out which you had a good chance of hitting. I must say that that we were all very haired out when we saw these waves breaking as well as knowing the possible consequences. Rob was the only one who paddled out when we first arrived. The rest of us sat around watching it for about two hours before just a few of us had enough balls to paddle out! I personally have surfed much bigger and heavier waves before, but today was definitely playing some serious mind games with all of us. It’s always pretty intense when you pull up to a spot that you have never surfed before and are faced with these conditions!

So now let me tell you a little about the surf session at Ebay. As far as Rob is concerned, he was charging it hard today. He had balls of steel in my book! Rob got some serious barrels and definitely some serious beatings. I took off on my first wave too deep and got buried. I got pushed inside near the rocks as I just kept getting tossed and turned. Once I finally made my way back out, I attempted another wave and it pretty much bitch slapped me. This time I got so pounded and dragged underwater for what felt like forever. Once I surfaced, I realized that I was pretty close to being pushed into the rocks. Then I look out and there are more set waves coming my way and all I could think in my head was “Oh Shit”! Three more waves broke on me as I kept fighting to stay away from the rocks. On top of that, I ended up swallowing a mouth full of salt water and was choking from it as the waves were working me like a washing machine. I can’t even tell you how stressed out I was! For those of you who surf and are reading this, I am sure that you will understand once you see the pics below. We are going to attempt this spot again tomorrow so hopefully it will be a better experience! The journey continues…

Oh ya, one last thing! I did get some shots below of Rob & Hilsy getting barreled with a bunch of Pro Surfer Chicks in the background on a boat. I must say that the shots are pretty classic!